Macchu Picchu

One of the first views of Macchu Picchu after the fog cleared

Macchu Picchu is a Pre-Columbian structure built in the 15^th Century. Although there are many theories surrounding the exact purpose of this imposing structure, most scholars agree that it had an important religious purpose. And the location which was strategically chosen was virtually untakeable.

Hiram Bingham

And here for some gossip : In 1911, the American researcher Hiram Bingham from the university of Yale claimed  to have “discovered” the Lost City of the Incas” as he called Macchu Picchu. But he later acknowledged that the site not only was known to the locals but that even other citizens of the outside world had visited the it prior to him.  

Nevertheless credit must be given to Bingham for the thorough scientific approach he had in mapping, surveying, cleaning and numbering and booking every building and artifact he found on the site. He is indeed the one who brought Macchu Picchu to the attention of the world.

More gossip: The Peruvian government agreed  to Bingham sending thousands of pieces of artifacts to Yale University with the understanding that these pieces would be returned within two years. One century later most of these may still be admired in the Peabody Museum at Yale !

As we were approaching the 100 years celebrations of the “re-discovery” of Macchu Picchu by Hiram Bingham, the Peruvian Govt filed a lawsuit against Yale University to have the pieces retuned to Peru. In early 2010 Yale University accepted to return most of the pieces under certain conditions.

A side view of the huge complex of buildings surrounding a sacred rock

The Government of Peru has not been without reproach either in the management of the site. They used it as the cash cow in terms of tourist spending. In the year 2003 an overwhelming 400.000 tourists visited this site. Poor maintenance, unlimited number of tourists and permission to build a cable car for easier access and a heliport  right in the middle of the site have led to some tremendous uprising from the scholars, scientists, the general international  public and most importantly the people of Peru. UNESCO classified this site as endangered in the 1980’s. All this (plus of course financial pressure) forced the Peruvian Govt to review its management of the site.

It must be said though that this site it still very expensive to access. The train (operated by Americans) costs over US$100 for as many kilometres, the small shuttle charges US$12 for a 20 minutes ride which are about 10 times the going rates for similar distances.

Some of the first things the Govt of Peru did were the cancelations of permits for helicopter flights over the site (it is now a no-fly zone) as well as for the construction of the cable car and other commercial projects including building shopping stalls around the site.

They limited the number of visitors to 4000 per day to Macchu Picchu and 400 per day to Huayna Picchu from where one has a spectacular view of the ruins. In July 2011 they reduced the per diem quota to 2500.

We were in Ecuador when we learned about the new regulations and we decided to promptly book our tickets to Macchu Picchu online. And of course we opted for the Huayna Picchu as well,  in the first 200 to climb at 7am (the other half climbs at 10am).

On the eve, we got to Aguas Calientes which is an ugly town whose sole reason to be is to house the tourists before their trip to the sacred Inca city. Anyway we still tried our luck at the natural thermal baths (Aquas Clientes literally means Hot Waters). But on seeing the two little pools filled with people and the water that had already turned brown we decided we would pass our turn !

The next morning we wake up at 4.30am  to prepare jam sandwiches. We then make sure that by 5.15am we’re in line waiting for the first shuttles to bring us up to the gates of Macchu Picchu. We get there just before the gates open at 6am. 

At 6am and we cannot see the buildings that surround us

When we get in all the preparation and anticipation make way for … FOG ! We can’t see anything because it is so thick. We literally don’t even know in which direction the ruins are. Freelance guides offering their services point us in the right direction and finally we start discerning the contours of the buildings.

The first small wall starts to reveal itself,  then it’s a big building. We start clicking away for the first pictures while making our way hastily to the other side of the complex where we will be in the lucky 200 to be able to climb Huayna Picchu at 7am.

Macchu Picchu is in front of us but we can't see it

When we are finally allowed to start the 1hour ascent, it’s 7.30am already.  Bitter disappointment awaits us on our way up as the fog gets thicker and we cannot see Macchu Picchu. As we reach the top and turn around to look at the Inca complex we realize we will need a lot of luck to actually see something

It's clearing up

It is 8.45 and we wait nervously. We will be kicked down from the summit of Huayna Picchu at around  9.45am by the officials to make way for the group climbing at 10am.  Suddenly the wind picks up and the sun manages to pierce through this thick white blanket. The whole Inca city starts to appear before our incredulous eyes. It’s a beauty and we are privileged to be there. The whole group spontaneously starts to applaud and cheer!

Macchu Picchu as seen from Huayna Picchu

After hundreds of pictures, we are happy to make our way down back to Macchu Picchu where we join a guided group. The tour lasts for two hours and we are given explanations of the ins and outs of the functioning of the city. 

The classic "postcard" angle

It housed about 500 people with space and potential resources for 2000! It had a reliable water source that was concealed from enemies and the steep cliffs around it constituted a formidable natural defence. And fortunately so because had the Spanish discovered this place they would have looted it and all we would see now would be a small church standing over the old ruins.

At about 1pm we take the shuttle back down to Aguas Calientes an d board the train back to Cusco…Mission accomplished!

Full set of pictures of Macchu Picchu